Sunday, April 26, 2009

Eleventh Report

Sunday 26th April - Glen Helen to Alice Springs
I left the most peaceful Glen Helen at 8.30 and was farewelled by some of the staff, including the amazing Gary Morrison who plays live music there for five nights of the week. I must have made an impression. I had a slow easy ride to Alice Springs through the beautiful West Mac Ranges, which are so remeniscent of the Flinders Ranges. Ancient and beautiful. I rode around Alice Springs to get my bearings again, which didn't take long, visited Anzac Hill, and booked into the MacDonnell Ranges Caravan Park for three nights. There are many bikes in town as the Vietnam Veteran Motorcycle Club in in town for their AGM and for Anzac Day. Once I was settled, I rang Margaret and Peter R. from Blackwood who are staying in town with their daughter Josie and her family. We went to the local Drag Strip where there was a street meeting. Josie and Dan are officials at the Club. it was an interesting afternoon, and this type of meeting gives the locals a chance to try out their cars under controlled conditions. There was even a bloke on a quad bike who managed to get about 80mph out of it on the 1/4 mile track. I spent the evening sharing a bottle of red with some folk from Melbourne who have been on tour for several months and have told the kids that they might be home by October.

Saturday 25th April - Glen Helen
A cold night and the first since I left home that I have needed my sleeping bag. I woke at sunrise and took a couple of photos of the gorge in the early desert light, and layed back down for a couple of minutes. I woke again at 9.00 am. At 11.00 there was a very small Anzac Service held out the front of the old homestead. There were no more than 15 of us there, with most being staff. The resident muso played "The Band Played Waltzing Matilda" and the old Redgum song "He was only 19". A poem was read, the Last Post was played on the guitar, a minute of silence was observed, and the flag was raised. The wreath laid by the manager was made up of a foam vegetable box adorned with a mass of wildflowers. It was so appropriate. We all then sang the National Anthem. It was a very simple, moving, and reverent service. There were tears all round. After lunch I went for a spin out to Tylers Pass, and the lookout which overlooks Gosse Bluff, a meteorite impact crater. This is a new section of sealed road which goes for another 44 km west from Glen Helen. Nice road with plenty of corners!!! I spent the afternoon sitting alone by the 100 million year old Finke River which runs below the ancient cliffs and through the Glen Helen Gorge. I needed this easy restful day after some long miles and some emotional highs and lows. The words came flooding to me "He leads me beside still waters and restores my soul...." It is exactly how I felt, and I was relieved that I had found a place and time to chill out. I spent the evening listning to the live music, and sharing wine and stories with other travellers.

Friday 24th April - Tennant Creek to Glen Helen
There was a disaster in the caravan park overnight. I'd been chatting to a lady the previous evening who was complaining that the fridge in nher caravan was not working. The manufacturer had suggested that they try it on gas. At 2.00am thre fridge blew up and set fire to the caravan. All escaped harm, but the van was severely damaged by fire and water. I left the scene of the disaster at 8.00 and headed south, stopping at Wycliffe Wells for breakfast. This is said to be the UFO capital of Australia. Hmmmmm. Very odd people at Wycliffe Wells, and I'm not surprised that they are seeing UFOs. They probably see a whole lot of other stuff too. I stocked up of groceries at Alice Springs, and rode the 135 km out to Glen Helen. I felt quite emotional as I rode in. It's such a beautiful spot, and I had a sense of coming home, as Chris and I have spent some time here chilling out after a difficult run to Alice Springs with the caravan a couple of years ago. This was the first day for about four weeks that I've had a day below 35 degrees. It peaked at 26 by 10.00 am and cooled down as the day progressed. This is a very peaceful spot and I'm glad to be here.

Thursday 23rd April - Edith Falls to Tennant Creek
I left Edith Falls quite early and watched the country change from lush to desert. Today was somewhat uninspiring, and I was just laying down lots of miles. The Outback Caravan Park at Tennant Creek is quite good. In the everning there was a bush tucker and bush poetry presentation by "Jimmy", a real character who appeared on Australian Story a little while ago. Jimmy was bought up by his aboriginal mother in the bush, is quite illiterate, and was very knowledgeable and entertaining.

Wednesday 22nd April - Darwin to Edith Falls
I said goodbye to Greg and Deb and Charlotte, and rode out at 8.30. I feel like my adventure is ending as I am now most certainly heading towards home. I rode the loop through Kakadu via Jabiru and back to the highway at Pine Creek. A lot of the highlights in Kakadu are off the main road on dirts 4WD tracks and many are stil closed after the wet. I decided not to stay at Cooinda, but to press on to Edith Falls just north of Katherine. I rode through fires for most of the day, which appeared to be controlled but unattended fires, clearing undergrowth. Edith Falls is a real find, about 20 km off the highway and on the northern end of the Katherine Gorge area. There is a large rock pool about 150m in diameter, which is fed from a waterfall. The pool is safe for swimming and only the freshwater crocs live in it!!! The camp ground is well grassed and there is a small kiosk selling takeaway food and some supplies. This is a "must see" for visitors heading up this way.




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