How to read this blog

This blog is arranged chronologically, with the oldest post being at the bottom of the pages. To read this blog from the beginning, first click on "2009" which is located under "Blog Archive" in the left side panel. This will put all the posts on one page. You can the scroll to the bottom and start reading. I hope you enjoy reading about my "Half Way Around Australia" trip.

Wrap up and Some Statistics....

Map Showing the Route














Click on the map to enlarge it. The green trace shows the route taken and the red dots are the overnight stays

Photos have now been added to all the posts.
Enjoy our journey with us!
Pete 23rd May 2009


Some Overall Impressions
This was a memorable adventure and Marcelo, Steve And Fish were great companions to share it with. After they had headed towards home from Rockhampton, and I continued north on my own, the character of the trip completely changed. I certainly felt alone as the boys headed west and I continued on the long stretch north towards Cairns. That feeling did not last, as I quickly found that there were always companions and new friends to share the adventure wherever I stopped. The Camp Kitchens were full of like-minded travelers, all wanting to share their stories and hear mine. I met so many wonderful folk and heard some great yarns.

Riding highlights were probably the mountain roads in northern NSW and southern QLD, and I would love to return and further explore those areas. The place where I felt the most at ease and “chilled” was at Glen Helen, west of Alice Springs. I spent two much needed peaceful and restful days there.

Being away from home and family for 51 days could have been difficult more difficult. However, coming home from Cairns for my APM presentation, and then having Chris fly to Darwin for a few days eased my homesickness.

Australia is a huge country, and it was a privilege to experience so much of it, all be it just on the sealed roads, and Honda was the perfect bike for the job, but I certainly miss the old fashioned and gutsy style of the big Yamaha. Sadly, it was not up the the job.

Given the opportunity I would readily undertake another such trip, and have identified areas where some cost savings could be made. Mainly with food and drink, and accommodation. I would not buy so many lunches and cold drinks, and on a number of occasions I couldn’t be bothered putting up the my tent, and grabbed a cabin. I might just have to start planning where I’ll go next……..


Trip Statistics
Days Away: 51
Distance Covered: 16,314 kilometers
Fuel Used: 794 litres
Most Expensive Fuel: $1.85 per litre at Barkly Homestead
Nights in my Tent: 34 - Other nights were in cabins and pubs, or with friends & relatives.
Cheapest Camp: $7.50 per night at Melrose
Most Expensive Camp: $31 per night at Alice Springs

Back Home

Monday 4th May - Melrose to Home
4 Degrees at 7.00 am Nice and brisk as I packed up my tent and gear for the last time. It was quite hard to get away from the Ulysses mob, as they all wanted to chat, while I was keen to head for home. Most were interested in my great adventure, and were keen to discuss what camping equipment I had been using, and it’s suitability for long term, all weather camping. I eventually said my goodbyes at 8.30 and hit the road for the last leg home. This ride was is through such beautiful country and I enjoyed every bit of the ride. One fuel stop, and a coffee and toast at Clare. There were endless road works north of Gawler and the going became quite slow. I finally rode into the driveway at 12.40. Judy and the dog were there to greet me. It’s lovely to be home with family and friends. It has been such a pleasure to travel this great country and to have met such a diverse group of other travelers.

Tonight I share a meal with my family, sit in a comfy armchair and watch the news, sleep in my own bed, and use a toilet which is not 100 meters away from where I happen to be. Tomorrow I will sleep in, put on some different clothes, and visit my parents. These are all things that I have missed.


Sunday 3rd May - Coober Pedy to Melrose
Breakfast with the Blackwood mob and farewell to Chris at 8.30 am and I headed south as they prepared to head north. Chris and I seem to keep passing like ships in the night on this trip, and I won’t see her now until next Sunday when our going in different ways comes to an end and we are both home together again. The first 200kilometers south from Coober Pedy is quite flat and uninteresting, and probably the most boring road on the whole trip. Through Port Augusta and into the spectacular Horrocks Pass, on the way to Melrose. This is the most corners that I have seen all in one place since leaving Cairns so long ago, and the Honda tyres have a nasty flat patch across the middle from so much straight riding. Horrocks Pass was a good chance to stretch the Honda and explore it’s capabilities through the great 12 kilometers of twisties. I nearly went back down to do it again! Melrose Caravan Park was totally packed when I arrived, and there was a mass of motorcycles and caravans. Port Lincoln Ulysses Club were in town as were two other caravan clubs. I paid my $7.50 (cheap) was squeezed into a little spot, which after all was all that I needed, and was instantly adopted by the Port Lincoln Ulysses mob. We all headed to the pub for tea and I spent a most enjoyable last night, swapping stories with a bunch of like-minded and similar aged riders. It was a fitting way to spent the last night as my adventure draws to an end. A cold night loomed as there was chill in the air as we retired at around 10.00 (A very late night!!)

Saturday 2nd May - Yulara to Coober Pedy
I woke to a dingo snooping around my tent He had no fear of people and was not keen to be shooed away. He finished up grabbing an empty platic bag left outside another tent and disappeared over the sandhills. I left Yulara just on sun-up, and rode straight into the rising sun on a cold morning. It was a slow first two hours as I was worried about the limitied vision and the chance of kangaroos and cattle on the road. Despite those problems it was a beautiful sight with the sunrise on the rock to my right and the beautiful crisp colours of the morning on the landscape. I had a rest and hot chocky at Erldunda, and then had an easy run all the way to Coober Pedy. A photo opportunity at the SA/NT border as I was finally in m y home state was not to be missed. I finally got in about 4.00 and it all feels very much like I’m heading back home as I’ve now in areas that I know quite well for a few days. I pitched my tent in the Stuart Range Caravan Park and bought some supplies. Chris is heading north with the crew going to Fregon will be at Coober Pedy tonight. I anticipated that they would arrive at around 6.30, but at about 5.30 the two vehicles rolled up. It was great to see Chris again, and it was also lovely to see my friends from Blackwood, Chris number 2, June, Carolyn, Jeni, Grant and Jonathon. It was lively evening as we shared stories and made friends with the usual mob of backpackers, including a French fellow riding around Australia on a bicycle for the fourth time. He was doing it tough as he was riding mainly on the dirt backroads.


Friday 1st May – Yulara
I had a disturbed night with someone in a neighbouring tent coughing their heart out all night. Their tent was gone before sunrise, and I presume it may have been to seek medical aid, as the person sounded very bad indeed. I saddled up and paid the $25 required to get into the National Park (excessive) and spent the day snooping about Uluru, Kata Juta and the Cultural Centre. I was unable to do any walking as I had no suitable shoes, and my riding boots make my feet hurt if I spend too much time walking in them. Instead I sat and just soaked up the impressive surroundings. It’s no surprise that it holds such an important place in the culture of the traditional owners. In the evening a met a fellow Ulysses member who was also camping in the Yulara Campground.


Thursday 30th April – Alice Springs to Yulara
I left Alice Springs at 8.00 am with a full tank of fuel and stopped for breaks at Stuarts Well, Erldunda and Curtain Springs. The road from Erldunda passes through sandhill country with beautiful desert colours. The clours are amazing with red of the sand against the gold of the spinifex, all set against the bluest sky that you could imagine. This is truly beautiful country. I arrived at the Yulara Campground at 2.00pm, still with ¼ tank of fuel after 470km of trtavelling. The range of this bike is impressive. I was surprised to find the campground here was considerably cheaper than Alice Springs. (Alice was the most expensive unpowered site for the trip, and I paid $31 per night. A family who were staying there had to pay $6 per night extra for each of their two kids, both of who were under five.) I spent the afternoon lazing around the camp, buying some groceries and wandering about the camp area. The camp kitchen was basic, but had no toaster, microwave or kettle.

Twelfth Report

Wednesday 29th April - Alice Springs
This is the 47th day since I left home, which now seems so long ago. So far I have journeyed just over 14,000 km, and I am very conscious that my great adventure will be soon drawing to a close. Today was a day to catch up on some much needed jobs. I did some washing, cleaned the bike, bought some groceries and spent several hours exploring the Alice Springs Desert Park. This is an amazing place, which was set up about 13 years ago. It has woodland, sandhill and desert river habitats, and exhibits plants and animals from those regions. I'm keen to resume my travelling again, and tomorow head for Yalara for a couple of nights. Other travellers tell me that costs for accomodation and food are quite high, and that the park entry fee is now $25 for each person, rather than about $36 for a car as it was a couple of years ago. I'm now timing my run south so that I will meet Chris at Coober Pedy on Saturday night, as she heads north with the group from the Church going to Fregon for a few days. While I have not been alone on this trip, I have certainly missed having my family around me and look forward to seeing Chris again.

Tuesday 28th April - Alice Springs
I decided to ride back to Aileron which is 130 km north of Alice Springs. On the ride south I missed seeing the 8-9 meter high statue of an aboriginal man on the hillside overlooking the roadhouse. 260 km is quite a diversion for a photograph!! The statue was a very spectacular sight, with the man holding a spear and looking like a sentinal watching over the land. The roadhouse costs were pure exploitation and it cost me $11 for a drink and a bannana. Fuel was $1.80 per litre, just five cents short of Barkly Roadhouse. In the afternoon I visited the grave of Harold Bell Lasseter, who claimed to have found a massive gold reef in the desert beyond the Peterman Ranges. He died in about 1931 while apparently trying to find it again. There is now modern evidence that he may have been a fraud and that the reef does not exist. Analysis of the gold samples that he claimed came from "his" reef came from Kalgoorlie in WA. I like the story of the "Lost Gold of Lassiter" much better.

Monday 27th April - Alice Springs
I lef the bike at the Honda dealer for a service at 7.45 and picked it up again at 11.00. In the meantime I wandered about the Alice Springs CBD. The dealer found that the top box (a storage box on the back) had been poorly installed and one bolt had come completely undone, with the nut getting lodged somewhere around the engine. They found the nut and have fixed the problem. Cairns to Alice Springs via Darwin with the box only just being held in place and a full load could have turned out badly. I rode out to Ross River where I met Pete and Marg R. and their daughter Josie for lunch. The cook was gone for the day, the kitchen closed and no cooked food available. The manager said that the Vietnam Veterans Bike Club had been out ther ethe day before and cleaned his out of food and grog. We managed to get him to round up some pies and cold drinks, so we didn't starve. The East Mac Ranges are spectacular, with lots to see, so long as you have a 4WD. Back at camp in the evening I met Jim and his wife Sid. Jim has retired from being the winemaker at Wirra Wirra near McLaren Vale.

Eleventh Report

Sunday 26th April - Glen Helen to Alice Springs
I left the most peaceful Glen Helen at 8.30 and was farewelled by some of the staff, including the amazing Gary Morrison who plays live music there for five nights of the week. I must have made an impression. I had a slow easy ride to Alice Springs through the beautiful West Mac Ranges, which are so remeniscent of the Flinders Ranges. Ancient and beautiful. I rode around Alice Springs to get my bearings again, which didn't take long, visited Anzac Hill, and booked into the MacDonnell Ranges Caravan Park for three nights. There are many bikes in town as the Vietnam Veteran Motorcycle Club in in town for their AGM and for Anzac Day. Once I was settled, I rang Margaret and Peter R. from Blackwood who are staying in town with their daughter Josie and her family. We went to the local Drag Strip where there was a street meeting. Josie and Dan are officials at the Club. it was an interesting afternoon, and this type of meeting gives the locals a chance to try out their cars under controlled conditions. There was even a bloke on a quad bike who managed to get about 80mph out of it on the 1/4 mile track. I spent the evening sharing a bottle of red with some folk from Melbourne who have been on tour for several months and have told the kids that they might be home by October.

Saturday 25th April - Glen Helen
A cold night and the first since I left home that I have needed my sleeping bag. I woke at sunrise and took a couple of photos of the gorge in the early desert light, and layed back down for a couple of minutes. I woke again at 9.00 am. At 11.00 there was a very small Anzac Service held out the front of the old homestead. There were no more than 15 of us there, with most being staff. The resident muso played "The Band Played Waltzing Matilda" and the old Redgum song "He was only 19". A poem was read, the Last Post was played on the guitar, a minute of silence was observed, and the flag was raised. The wreath laid by the manager was made up of a foam vegetable box adorned with a mass of wildflowers. It was so appropriate. We all then sang the National Anthem. It was a very simple, moving, and reverent service. There were tears all round. After lunch I went for a spin out to Tylers Pass, and the lookout which overlooks Gosse Bluff, a meteorite impact crater. This is a new section of sealed road which goes for another 44 km west from Glen Helen. Nice road with plenty of corners!!! I spent the afternoon sitting alone by the 100 million year old Finke River which runs below the ancient cliffs and through the Glen Helen Gorge. I needed this easy restful day after some long miles and some emotional highs and lows. The words came flooding to me "He leads me beside still waters and restores my soul...." It is exactly how I felt, and I was relieved that I had found a place and time to chill out. I spent the evening listning to the live music, and sharing wine and stories with other travellers.

Friday 24th April - Tennant Creek to Glen Helen
There was a disaster in the caravan park overnight. I'd been chatting to a lady the previous evening who was complaining that the fridge in nher caravan was not working. The manufacturer had suggested that they try it on gas. At 2.00am thre fridge blew up and set fire to the caravan. All escaped harm, but the van was severely damaged by fire and water. I left the scene of the disaster at 8.00 and headed south, stopping at Wycliffe Wells for breakfast. This is said to be the UFO capital of Australia. Hmmmmm. Very odd people at Wycliffe Wells, and I'm not surprised that they are seeing UFOs. They probably see a whole lot of other stuff too. I stocked up of groceries at Alice Springs, and rode the 135 km out to Glen Helen. I felt quite emotional as I rode in. It's such a beautiful spot, and I had a sense of coming home, as Chris and I have spent some time here chilling out after a difficult run to Alice Springs with the caravan a couple of years ago. This was the first day for about four weeks that I've had a day below 35 degrees. It peaked at 26 by 10.00 am and cooled down as the day progressed. This is a very peaceful spot and I'm glad to be here.

Thursday 23rd April - Edith Falls to Tennant Creek
I left Edith Falls quite early and watched the country change from lush to desert. Today was somewhat uninspiring, and I was just laying down lots of miles. The Outback Caravan Park at Tennant Creek is quite good. In the everning there was a bush tucker and bush poetry presentation by "Jimmy", a real character who appeared on Australian Story a little while ago. Jimmy was bought up by his aboriginal mother in the bush, is quite illiterate, and was very knowledgeable and entertaining.

Wednesday 22nd April - Darwin to Edith Falls
I said goodbye to Greg and Deb and Charlotte, and rode out at 8.30. I feel like my adventure is ending as I am now most certainly heading towards home. I rode the loop through Kakadu via Jabiru and back to the highway at Pine Creek. A lot of the highlights in Kakadu are off the main road on dirts 4WD tracks and many are stil closed after the wet. I decided not to stay at Cooinda, but to press on to Edith Falls just north of Katherine. I rode through fires for most of the day, which appeared to be controlled but unattended fires, clearing undergrowth. Edith Falls is a real find, about 20 km off the highway and on the northern end of the Katherine Gorge area. There is a large rock pool about 150m in diameter, which is fed from a waterfall. The pool is safe for swimming and only the freshwater crocs live in it!!! The camp ground is well grassed and there is a small kiosk selling takeaway food and some supplies. This is a "must see" for visitors heading up this way.

Tenth Report

Tuesday 21st April - Darwin
This is my last day in Darwin, and it's been beaut staying with Debbie, Greg and their delightful daughter Charlotte. I went to Berrimah to catch up with work colleagues Andy T. and Gino today. They have a well integrated laboratory complex with all disciplines working in the same area. After a cuppa and a gool chinwag, I rode to Lee Point which looks to be the most northerly sealed road on mainland Australia. On this trip I have now taken my bike to the highest, most easterly and most northerly sealed roads on mainland Australia. Shopping in the afternoon for some groceries, and a "Nanna Nap", completed a lazy day. I headed out to tea at the Trailer Sailer Club for tea with Andy and Gino, and watched the sunset across the bay. Tomorrow the adventure continues, as I begin the final phase of the journey and I begin to head south towards home. The mileage (kilometerage?) is building, and I've booked the bike into a dealer at Alice Springs for next Monday for it's 6,000 service. Stay Tuned, but I may not be able to do another update to the Blog unitl I get to Alice Springs.

Monday 20th April - Darwin
It's lovely to be here with Chris, and we spent the day playing tourist around the city of Darwin. IN the morning we visited the Oil Storage Tunnels, hewn into solid rock under the city during WWII, and designed to hold ships fuel oil in a facility protected against bombing. The tunnels are quite extensive and now house a collection of photographs of Darwin taken during the war. The tunnels were never used to store fuel oil, but for a time after the war were used to store aviation fuel. We left the Oil Storage Tunnels and evnetually found our way to the Museum and Art Gallery where there was an impressive display on Cyclone Tracy which almost wiped Darwin off the map in 1974. I remember Christmas Day 1974 when we woke to hear reports that Darwin had been destroyed. Most sobering was a small darkened room where an audio recording of the cyclone was played at full volume. It would have been a terrifying experience for those who were bunkered down in the most secure places that they could find the ride it out. The display also showed pictures of the destruction and how the building code has changed in response to the destruction of 1974. We had lunch at the Museum Cafe and then went to the East Point Military Museum, another must see for anyone visiting Darwin. We watched film of the Japanese bombings during WWII, and wandered through impressive displays of military equipment. A walk to Casuarina Beach and Thai for tea capped off another special day. At 1.30am my alarm went off, and I took Chris to the airport, as her time in Darwin came to an end. I have missed having family to share this adventure with me, and it was sad to see Chris head for home.

Ninth Report

Sunday 19th April - Darwin
Chris had her first ride on the Honda this morning, as we headed south for Litchfield National Park. The weather was overcast, and the temperature in the mid thirty's, so conditions were reasonable pleasant. We came across a fatal accident on the Stuart Highway just south of Accacia. Traffic was diverted onot a side track for about one kilometre as police and emergency services dealt with the aftermath. It was quite sobering. We turned off the highway and stopped at Batchelor for fuel and something to eat. There were a couple of local Ulysses club members there, and we chatted for a while. You find old blokes on bikes everywhere!!. The road into Lithfield was great and my first real chance to try the bike on a decent series of corners. I did have to be a bit restrained with Chris on the back. We visited the beautiful Florence Falls, and then went back to Buley Rockhole where there were many families gathered and swimming in the system of refreshing rockpools. We had no bathers with us, and decided that swimming in our undies amid the familys and small kids was probably not on. We headed back inot Darwin via one of the caravan parks on the edge of Litchfield which served great food, and had a snack and a much needed cool drink. There is much to explore in Litchfield and we will be back some time in the future.

Saturday 18th April - Katherine to Darwin
I left Katherine at 8.30 am on my own. Peter was heading home to Kunnanurra with his Moto Guzzi, so we parted ways. It was an easy 300 km run to Darwin, and I had mu only encounter with a roo so far. It was hardly a danger as it hopped across the road about 100m in front of me. With luck, that will be a close as I get. Chris had flown up to Darwin to meet me, and we met at a shopping centre. Deb and Greg were there also, and they have kindly put us up for a few days. We all headed for the Darwin Wharf for an evening meal and sat on the water's edge eating local Barra and salad, and sharing a bottle of wine. Excess chips were thrown to the schools of huge moonfish that live around the wharf. It was a lovely night.

Friday 17th April -Threeways to Katherine
I had planned to leave the Treeways Roadhouse quite early and was up before the sun. That plan fell to bits when I met Peter, a drilling contractor from Kunnanurra who was returning home from Brisbane vis the Barkley Highway with a Moto Guzzi. He collects them and had found a limited edition bike at a good price. We chatted over breakfast in the roadhouse and decided to ride together for the day. As we headed north the vegetation was changing from desert to tropical, which was nice to see after the sparse vegetation that I had been seeing across western Queensland. Peter's pace as a little faster than I was happy with, and I would often lag behind, only to find him waiting for me somewhere down the road. At Katherine we called into the local Tourist Information Centre seeking accomodation. Alan at the Info Centre was a fellow Ulysses member and directed us to a caravan park where we took a standard cabin to share to costs. Pete and I sat outside and chatted over a couple of beers for some time, and then decided to toddle off to the park kiosk to get some take-away for tea. The kitchen was shut and we had to settle for a couple of pies that looked like they had been sitting in the heater for 48 hours, and washed them down with a couple more drinks and come good conversation. It was fitting end to a great day. I am enjoying every kilometer of this trip and am meeting some great folk.

Thursday 16th April - Cloncurry to Threeways
This was the day and the road that I had been apprehensive about before I stared this adventure. I have read some horror stories of this road, described as narrow and potholed, with crumbling edges and alive with dangerous road trains. Nothing could have been further from the truth. The road was in good condition and quite wide. There was plenty of room for passing road trains, and no danger posed with those travelling in the opposite direction. Cloncurry to Mt Isa was through spectacular hilly country. I stopped for lunch and a toilet break at Commoweal, and was shocked to see something moving amongst my deposit. Was it something I had done??? Turned out to be an unfortunate green tree frog, a resident of the toilet bowl. I'd be finding a better home. Most of the damaged portions have been repaired, including at the Rankine River where the road had washed away both sides of the huge bridge. This was a long hot day on quite uninspiring and flat country, and I rolled into Threeways at 4.30pm havin covered nearly 800km. The fuel range of the Honda is an impressive 500 kilometes or more, and fuel availablitly was not an issue on this lonely stretch. I was quite tired and instead of putting up the tent, decided to grab a cheap accomodation unit and sleep in a bed again.

Wednesday 15th April - Charters Towers to Cloncurry
Four inches of rain overnight! I'm gland I was in a bed and not in the tent. I spent a great night with Ann and David, and had a lazy breakfast before heading off. The day was an easy run and I finished up in a pretty ordinary cabin in a run down park.

Tuesday 14th April - Cairns to Charters Towers
I dropped the bike at Cairns Honda at 7.45 for it's 1,000km service, and it was ready by 9.30. Away a last!!! Cairns is lovely, but I've been so keen to get going again. The 350km run to Townsville a snap on the new bike. It's comfortable, and has an impressive fuel range. While in Townsville I rang my cousin Ann who lives in Charters Towers. Ann and her husband David were in Townsville building a vegetable garden for their daughters who live there. I spent the arvo in Townsville and left at 4.30 for the 130km run to Charters Towers. I was worried about kangaroos, but saw none. Shortly after crossing the Burdekin River Bridge (It's hard to believe that it went under water in the recent floods) I struck very heavy rain, right on dusk. It only lasted a couple of minuted and I was pleased to be past it. We spent a lovley evening, catching up on family gossip. Ann and I have not seen each other for over 30 years, so there was lot to chat about, and photos to be exchanged.

Monday 13th April - Cairns
Rain. Rain. Rain. I watched the Easter Campes packing up in the heavy rain and they did not appear to be having fun. I did some washing, repaired by torn Draggin Jeans and had coffee in the afternoon with Vernon. It was a lazy last day in Cairns and I'm keen to get going again oince the bike has been serviced.

Sunday 12th April - Cairns
Rain. My bee stung eye was so swollen that my right eye was almost closed when I woke up. It was a squeeze to get my helmet on my now odd shaped head. The kids in the park look at me like I'm the elephant man. I went for a ride and DROPPED THE NEW BIKE DOING A "U" TURN. Not Happy Jan!!!! I know EXACTLY what I did wrong. Stupid, Stupid, Stupid. Fortunately damage is limited to a scrape on a sacrificial bump strip and a little ding in the right muffler. I am very angry with my self, because it was a total lapse of concentration and a total lack of skill. Today I rode all through the Atherton Tablelands, which is a very beautiful area, with some magnificent bike roads. The lookouts had great views, and I could see 30 meters into the fog as the weather was crap, and matched my mood after dropping the bike. On return to Cairns I went to the Hospital to get my fat bee stung face checked out. After a two hour wait iI was reassured that it would settle, was not life threatning, and was given some medication to reduce the impressive swelling.

Saturday 11th April - Cairns
Rain, Rain, Rain. I rode to Atherton, Mareeba and through the surrounding areas, putting some miles on the bike before its first service on Tuesday morning. There is lots to see and do on the Atherton Tablelands. Near Atherton I copped bee sting near the corner of my right eye. I had just opened my visor for some fresh air. I immediately took an antihistamine and I react impressively to bee stings, and expect that my face will swell quite a bit over the next day or so. I was caught in a huge downpour just as I started down teh steep and winding Rex Range Road. It was a treacherous ride and I was glad to get to the bottom. I've been spending my evenings with a lovely Dutch couple wha have been touring Asia, NZ and Australia for seven months.